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When the World of Car Racing and Watch Manufacturing Meet

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Rubens Barrichello, the Brazilian racing driver has become a name of the Swiss watches industry in 2005 when, on the occasion of the Turkish Grand Prix, Audemars Piguet offered him a unique model of Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph to celebrate his 257th Formula 1 world record. A constant quest for performance, cutting-edge technology, innovation and audacity – these are attributes to describe Barrichello’s career as well as  the Swiss manufacturer’s products. Indeed, Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello is an ode to these values?? and it represents the successful union of the two prestigious worlds.

A very resistance type of ceramics was chosen by Audemars Piguet, because of its mechanical properties, for making the bezel, pushers and crown of this model. It was combined with three other high quality materials (950 platinum, 18 carat pink gold and grade 5 titanium) to provide the case of each of the three versions an unique look. Taken over from the car manufacturing industry, titanium is a stainless, light and extremely resistant metal with a very low thermal conductivity (it does not drain heat from the skin) and high chemical stability (it can be considered as hypoallergenic). Its strength, durability and lightness enabled the Swiss watchmakers to create an exceptional timepiece dedicated to extreme sports.

Loyal to the spirit of the legendary Royal Oak, this model’s octagonal bezel is adorned with eight motor screws. Other inspirations from the car racing world come in the form of the bezel seal, which reminds a disc brake, in the crown that evokes a piece of gear or as pushers which reflect the shape of an air extractor. This chronograph’s simple elegance is emphasized by an aluminum dial decorated with the “Mega Tapestry Racing” pattern in midnight blue, white or black, depending on the version. Partially perforated to reveal the movement of the watch, it has three counters (6, 9 and 12 hours) and a desk calendar. Indexes and hands are in gold and luminescent, except for the titanium version when they bear the colors of the Brazilian flag.

The Swiss Watch Making Technique at Its Most

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Probably the oldest living watch maker, Ephrem Jobin has played several roles in the history of the Swiss house and contributed to the appearance of some of the most beautiful Zenith watches during the 50s and 60s, but Class New Vintage remains the finest and most accomplished of his creations. He equipped this model with a caliber 135 for which the brand has won a great number of prestigious awards. Class New Vintage was praised by the press when it was launched and spoken of as “one of the best moves for a wristwatch in the history of watch making”. Even today, many collectors and professionals  agree.

In 1946 the factory gave Ephrem Jobin the mission of developing a watch with such a caliber that would be able to compete within the Neuchâtel Observatory contest. The results appeared in 1948 and the watch (Class New Vintage) on which the caliber was mounted even became a reference in the field of modern watchmaking both because of its elegant design and of its performance. In order to make it more precise, but also to provide it with a greater power reserve, it was equipped with a large barrel and a pendulum. Ephrem Jobin also took the risk of off-centering the minutes wheels using a paddle and a double arrowed Breguet spiral to better adjust and balance the watch.

Indeed, Class New Vintage outperformed all other watches within five editions of the Neuchâtel Observatory competition, from 1950 to 1954. The Swiss house obtained a total of 1398 first prizes after the launch of this exceptional watch. In 2009, to honor and celebrate Ephrem Jobin’s centennial with the great pomp that this talented watchmaker deserves, Zenith launched a new limited edition of this model.

Besides its mechanical sophistication, the Class New Vintage is also very aesthetic. Many of its components (the buckle of its alligator leather strap, its case and its hands) being made of 18 carat gold, it has a very stylish and elegant, yet simple look. Its finishing line includes the “Côtes de Genève” guilloché pattern and the use of 22 carat gold. The Class New Vintage has at least 146 components and 31 jewels.

Patek Philippe 5104 – Innovative tradition, Technical Aesthetics and Complex Simplicity

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The Swiss luxury watch manufacture Patek Philippe founded in 1839 has earned its reputation by creating prestigious collections such as Calatrava, Nautilus and Aquanaut. Permanently hunted by collectors, dreamed of by jewels lovers, its watches stand out especially for the numerous complications their mechanisms include. Reference 5104 is such an example. Its development has cost the Patek Philippe teams dozens of months of hard work, but the product is worthy all this investment as it demonstrates once again the talent of the Swiss watch designers and the technical expertise of the famous house.

Patek Philippe 5104 is a high standard wristwatch for men with a complex authentic appearance. It is the first model by Patek Philippe which displays the detailed mechanisms, usually hidden within ordinary watches. This rather unusual aspect constitutes the first hallmark of this model which features a transparent dial, made of sapphire crystal that enhances the aesthetics of its carefully designed mechanisms. It includes simultaneously a perpetual calendar, the date, minute repeaters, indication of moon phase, the wheel sets for hours, minutes and seconds. The transparent background underlines the elegance and beauty of the motion mechanisms.

 The date is indicated by a polished stainless steel hand whose end is adorned by a red half moon. The day, month and year are displayed on three circular areas, cleverly arranged on the rectangular dial and contrasting with the latter’s black metal. The numbering area is decorated with small sapphires. The round dials placed at 12 o’clock represent the cycle of leap years. The ones at 9o’clock indicate the day of the week, while those at 6 o’clock show the moon phase and the set placed at 3 o’clock displays the months. The hours and minutes are indicated by skeleton hands in 18K white gold.

 The Patek Philippe 5104 watch belongs to the Grand Complication series and embodies the Swiss manufacturer’s constinuous struggle for innovation. A self-winding movement, the 5104 model incorporates the house’s Calibre R 27 PS QR and its 515 microscopic parts and has a power reserve of 38 to 48 hours. Cutting edge technology in an elegant, but simple appearance – this the key with Patek Philippe’s products. The crocodile black leather bracelet, the rotor mounted in 22 karat yellow gold, the sides adorned with 18 carat red gold are this model’s aesthetic features. The 43 mm diameter and 12.90 mm thick case is made of platinum inlaid with 18 carat pink gold. Despite its size, this watch is light as it is made of carefully chosen materials: the bezel is crafted in platinum, while sapphire crystal is covering the back. Completely sealed, this elegant writwatch can be worn while swimming or diving.

GMT by Greubel Forsey – the Magic Watch Created by Genius Inventors

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The magicians of Greubel Forsey – the brand launched in 2004 by Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey – created an exceptional watch they labeled GMT. The passionate watch makers based in La Chaux-de-Fonds have already created a name for themselves as being original and innovative. This model proves it once again.

Thus, they did not simply display time zones by a jump hour window or by hands. They used to this effect a globe made of titanium, which makes a complete rotation in 24 hours, in the counterclockwise direction of the watch (the natural Earth’s rotation) and offers an original perception of time zones by positioning the continents against a neatly designed dial. World time is well represented and a side window offering an equatorial view of the rotating Earth was introduced in order to satisfy the fans from the Southern hemisphere.Antarcticais the only area that escapes the observer, but this does not put any geographical threats on the Swiss house’s market share.

With the globe at 8 o’clock, the Tourbillon 24 Seconds located at 5 o’clock, a third protuberance at 1 o’clock where the basic time information is consolidated and housing a small seconds dial at 2 o’clock followed by a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and a second time zone display at 10 o’clock, GMT looks more like an aviation control board than like a wrist watch. But the technical appearance does not even begin to illustrate the mechanical sophistication embodied by this time measuring object.

The caliber GF05 has two coaxial cylinders that allow a power reserve of 72 hours. The handmade finishing line uses the full range of traditional techniques: graining, beveling, polishing, and lapping. This movement contains 436 components, out of which 87 enter the light tourbillon cage (0.36 grams). Its sprung balance, equipped with a Phillips curved spiral provides 21.600 vibrations / hour.

From the Moon to the Submarine World with Louis Moinet

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Have the watch maker and the pioneer of the science-fiction genre met during the first half of the 19th century? There is no evidence about it. But, Jean-Marie Schaller, the CEO and founder of the newly launched Swiss house, certainly took pleasure in imagining such an event when creating the Jules Verne line of watches which use a unique and patterned activation mechanism of the chronograph.

This new way of activating the chronograph’s functions consists of a movable lever system with two positions. The cutting edge technology of the twelve components lies both in their design and in the high quality materials used to this effect: Delrin and hardened steel. The lock mechanism is secured with its pawl ceramic ball, which makes it extremely wear resistant. The lever stroke is itself controlled by a pin and a hardened steel plate cut to limit the path of the lever.This allows a secure use of the chronograph, but also provides the watch with a very stylish appearance.

But, the “ahead of time” technology is not the only feature that reminds Jules Verne. Two of the writer’s novels are exploited by the three models issued on the market, all in limited editions. While the first two models of this series were related to the moon expeditions imagined and accurately depicted by the visionary author of “From the Earth to the Moon”, the third one takes its influences from the submarine world and from the period’s features.Both Jules Verne Instrument I and II incorporate real pieces of the moon as a porthole at 9 o’clock. Louis Moinet is thus the first brand ever to have used meteorites when conceiving a watch.

Inspired by the novel “Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea”, published in 1869, Louis Moinet Jules Verne Instrument III is another mono-pusher retro-futuristic chronograph which does not betray the house’s strong reputation. For instance, Jules Verne Instrument III is equipped with a function indicator recalling the famous Chadburn telegraph transmitters of that age. The 45.50mm case was designed in the spirit of Captain Nemo’s fabulous adventures (the author’s loyal companion along various confrontations with known and unknown worlds) depicted by Jules Verne. Its uniqueness lies in the simplicity of the two contrasting shields, one in black titanium and the other in pink gold.

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  • Audemars Piguet
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Recent Posts

  • When the World of Car Racing and Watch Manufacturing Meet
  • The Swiss Watch Making Technique at Its Most
  • Patek Philippe 5104 – Innovative tradition, Technical Aesthetics and Complex Simplicity
  • GMT by Greubel Forsey – the Magic Watch Created by Genius Inventors
  • From the Moon to the Submarine World with Louis Moinet

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